June 2018 - Chik's Crib

11 June 2018

Warm Chocolate Tart Recipe

June 11, 2018 1
Warm Chocolate Tart Recipe

Following the not-so-ideal execution of my cocoa cookies where I ended up on a late night oven-shopping excursion, I thought I should get to know my new purchase a little better. I channeled my inner Ned-and-Chuck to bake up a recipe that's easy as, well, pie. Who couldn't use a slice of Pushing Daisies magic in their lives?

This pie is almost-magical - I've never seen my family take to a dessert quite as quickly. It must've been the combination of the visual appeal (we're a sucker for fruits), the bold chocolate profile, and a subtle sweetness - barely imperceptible - backing the light custard. 

At its core, it's a chocolate pudding dressed up in a baked tart. If you enjoy the occasional warm chocolate pudding, you'll love this one: a chocolate pudding poured into a warm tart and served fresh from the oven. What's not to love? (A tart means you get to eat even more butter!) The assay of berries over the tart completes a photogenic appearance and assuages any and all health-related guilt. 

There's an deep-seated satisfaction pulling a warm pastry is out of the oven, and taking in the irresistible fragrance of a buttery tart. A colder climate would suit eating the tart as soon as you can wrangle the metal ring off, while in Singapore, the contrast of a still-heated tart alongside chilled berries hits all the right notes. The pleasure of gathering around a tart with family and tucking in gives the tart a magical experience


And that brings us to a Pushing Daisies quote on the warmth of sharing a pie...

"Musing on the idea of setting someone on fire doesn't mean you really want to set them on fire. It's just the thought of it that makes you happy."— Olive Snook

Oh you meant a spiritual warmth? Hmmm.

  

“Pie is home. People always come home.” — Ned



Warm Chocolate Tart Recipe
Makes one 9-1/2 inch pie
Recipe adapted from Seriously Bitter Sweet by Alice Medrich (Artisan Books)



INGREDIENTS

Crust:
7 tablespoons (100 grams) unsalted butter, melted
¼ cup (50 grams) sugar
⅛ teaspoon salt
¾ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 cup (130 grams) all-purpose flour


Filling:

3 tablespoons (45 grams) unsalted butter, cut into chunks
½ cup (100 grams) sugar
¼ cup (25 grams) premium unsweetened cocoa powder (natural or Dutch-process) (see VARIATION below)
1 cup heavy cream
1¼ teaspoons instant espresso/coffee powder (optional) 
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 large egg, lightly beaten

STEPS
1. Preheat the oven to 175°C (350°F). Set a rack in the lower third of the oven. 

2. Tart crust:
Mix the melted butter, sugar, salt, and vanilla in a medium-sized bowl. Add flour and mix until combined. The dough may seem soft - it's fine! Press the dough evenly into tart pan, as well as up the sides. Bake the tart just as it is, without pricking it with the tines of a fork, for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the crust is a deep golden brown.

3. Filling:
While the tart is in the oven, combine the butter, sugar, cocoa powder, and cream in a saucepan. Stir constantly over medium heat until it begins to simmer around the edges. Remove from the heat. Stir in the espresso powder, if using, and vanilla.

4.  Keep a close lookout for the tart crust. Just before the crust is ready, whisk the egg into the hot chocolate mixture, and pour the filling into the hot crust. Turn off the oven, but leave the tart in. The residual heat will continue to cook and set the filling. It's done when the filling is set along the sides, but quiver in the center when the pan is nudged, about 10 to 12 minutes. If the filling has not set, turn the oven back on and bake for a while more at a lower temperature.

Cool on a rack. Serve the tart while warm. 

VARIATION (as suggested by Alice)
Walnut Tart: 
In a food processor, blend 35 grams (⅓ cup) walnut pieces with 105 grams (¾ cup) flour until fine. Substitute this mixture for the flour.

Reduce the butter to 85 grams (6 tablespoons) and add 2 teaspoons brandy and 1 teaspoon instant espresso powder (or a heaping teaspoon instant coffee powder or crystals) with the sugar, salt and vanilla.

You could also make it with toasted skinned hazelnuts, then I would omit the espresso powder. 

Cocoa powder
Natural cocoa powder has a livelier, more complex, fruity flavor, while Dutch-process cocoa has a cozy old-fashioned flavor reminiscent of chocolate pudding. Both works well here. 

04 June 2018

Earl Grey Ice Cream Recipe

June 04, 2018 1
Earl Grey Ice Cream Recipe
I went through a few Earl Grey ice cream recipes online trying to find one that I liked. The first version was from Van Leeuwen Artisan Ice Cream, which uses a traditional French custard style of ice cream using egg yolks. I probably left it on the stove for a bit too long, which cooked the yolks. It was still salvageable, but I wasn't impressed with the consistency. 

I'd heard remarkable things about the consistency of the Philadelphia style, and was keen to give it a go. The Philadelphia style is made without egg yolks, and Jeni Bauer's ice cream cookbook were making traction online for their sensational flavors and smooth consistency. She has a base recipe which lends itself easily to any flavour that you can think of. Lindsay from Scoop Adventures did an Earl Grey variation, and boy, did I hit the jackpot. It was everything I want from in my ice cream; a deep, bold earl grey profile that highlighted the smooth consistency of the dessert. Bonus!: Because of the no-egg rule, the recipe has quite a bit of leeway when cooking and there's no fear of leaving the mixture over a fire for a bit longer than you should have. 


Earl Grey Ice Cream
Adapted from Lindsay from Scoop Adventures. Original base recipe by Jeni Britton Bauer
Makes 1L 
I use Twinning's tea bags for this recipe. When cut open, 8 tea bags yield 15g of loose tea leaves. They were easily strained away afterwards with a nylon sieve, but I'm thinking for future recipes, I can leave them in the tea bags for convenience. Loose tea leaves in the photos are from French Earl Grey from Higher Living


INGREDIENTS
30ml + 470ml (500ml/2 cups) whole milk
315 ml (1 1/3 cups) heavy cream
100g sugar
30 ml (2 tablespoon) corn syrup 
8 tea bags (15 g) earl grey tea leaves
11 g (1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon) cornstarch
45 g (3 tablespoon/1.5 oz) cream cheese, softened
1/8 teaspoon kosher salt


STEPS
1. In a large saucepan, combine 470ml of milk with the heavy cream, sugar and corn syrup. Place over medium fire, stirring constantly until sugar dissolves.  

2. Add tea leaves and mix. Stir over the fire until mixture starts to simmer. Turn off the flame and allow leaves to steep for one hour at room temperature. 


3. In a small bowl, mix 30ml of milk with cornstarch and return to fridge. Remove cream cheese from fridge and into a large bowl. Let it come to room temperature, and whisk until smooth. Set a fine mesh sieve over the bowl and set aside.


4. When the 1 hour is up, discard the tea bags. (If using loose tea leaves, sieve the tea leaves out, and press firmly on the leaves to extract as much of the tea-infused milk as possible. Discard the tea leaves.)


5. Place the milk mixture back over a small fire and bring a boil for about 4 minutes. Remove from heat and whisk the cornstarch mixture in. Return to a boil cook over moderate heat until the mixture is thickens slightly, about 1 minute. Remove from heat. Pour the hot milk mixture through the sieve into the large bowl containing the cream cheese. Whisk until smooth. Add salt.


6. Let the mixture cool completely (an ice water bath helps) before covering bowl and place in refrigerator to chill overnight, or at least 4 hours. Pour into an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.