April 2024 - Chik's Crib

14 April 2024

Voyage into Coffee

April 14, 2024 0
Voyage into Coffee



I remember my first espresso. I had just arrived in Milan in the December of 2013, a few days before Christmas. It was bitterly chilly, and was already late into the night when we stumbled into Pizzeria da Pino for dinner. (As a brief aside, their pizzas were a revelation to a 20-year-old young 'un, who had only just begun to realise how good pizza can be.) As we were finishing up our food, I struck up a conversation with one of the guys behind the counter, and mentioned in-passing that I have never had an espresso before. He was stunned speechless, before insisting on giving me my first espresso right there, just so that I couldn't say that ever again. And he did just that: una tazza di caffè espresso, served on a saucer 
with a small piece of chocolate. This restaurant cemented three things in my mind: one, how wonderful pizzas are; two, how warm the Italians are; and three, how good an espresso is.


I’ve came back from that trip clutching several moka pots, the quintessential Italian stovetop espresso maker. How prevalent is it? At one point, 9 in 10 households own oneMy own moka pot accompanied me on my university days, keeping me well-caffeinated throughout my studies. 


Back in the 2010s when I was living in Melbourne, there is a large Vietnamese town where I often frequented, and where I bought a phin for Vietnamese drip coffee. I used it quite a lot too, and savoured the heady aroma of ca phe brewing from my side table. Over the years, my phin fell by the wayside, until my recent trip to Hanoi rekindled my spark and I bought a large-sized version to brew for my entire family. The brewing process is actually quite fast if you do it right: the secret is to brew the ca phe over a vessel that allows the air to circulate out as the pot fills up with coffee (I use a tea pot.)

 


As I begin working, I spent several years drinking cold brew, as it can easily be prepared in bulk for the week ahead. The ratio, for those who are interested, is 1:6 (150g of ground coffee for 900g of water), which you steep overnight and then strain after. It’s meant to be steeped in room temperature, but in a tropical climate, I do so in a refrigerator.


On the weekends, I use the classic French press. My recipe came straight from the venerable James Hoffmann’s 3-minute guide, where you steep 15g medium ground coffee in 250g boiling water. This ratio can be scaled up or down, or tweaked for individual preferences, but so far, I'd not known anybody who had anything bad to say about this recipe. 


But finally, I've come full circle, and bought an espresso machine: a Breville Bambino, paired with a Turin SD40 grinder. 

Too soon for a mid-life impulse purchase, you say? Well I’m gonna have one anyway. 

Home Espresso machines run the gamut from beginner to “prosumer”. Fancy Italian machines which let users play with every variable that goes into making an espresso is like a Ferrari: you get superb results in the hands of people who know what they’re doing, but a beginner is more than likely to crash and burn. A Breville is like a Toyota: it's easy to use and produces reliably decent espresso. It automates a bunch of stuff to keep beginners from becoming overwhelmed, at least until they become acquainted with the espresso basics. novice can use preground coffee beans, mess up every step and still turn out adequate espresso from their first attempt. From there, their cup of joe only gets better. My daily workhorse are Robusta beans, which are a quarter of the price of Arabica beans. But even so, my coffee tastes - and looks - better than one from the average coffee shop. After adding milk, most people will be hard-pressed to taste the difference between Robusta and Arabica beans. 


I've been having a lot of fun experimenting with different coffee beans and dialing the beans in to make espressos, ristrettos and lungos. I probably also spent an inordinate amount of time reading up milk-based recipes from the common lattes, flat whites, cappuccinos and macchiatos to the more obscure drinks (the cortado, magic and piccolos.) The reading was not straightforward, to say the least. Recipes from one well-regarded source can (and often do) contradict another reputable source. It was maddening at the start, but I think this quirky trait is just proof of how consumers' tastes have evolved over time. A traditional cappuccino is 1/3 foam, 1/3 milk and 1/3 espresso, a proportion that is well-publicised, oft-repeated, and probably suits no one’s tastes these days. A glob of foam with no latte art is viewed as poor form. And dry foam filling up 1/3 of the cup? Sacrilegious. As the industry (and consumers’ tastes) matured, modern recipes drifted away from their original versions. But their iconic names stuck.  


Another possible reason for the shift was that drink sizes grew larger over the years. When espresso culture started in the nineteenth century, a shot of espresso was the default. With increasing drink sizes over the decades, a “double shot” of espresso became the norm, lest all the milk drown out the taste of espresso. But even as we doubled the espresso content, most traditional recipes still produce too small a beverage for consumers. Coming back to the classical cappuccino recipe, a double shot of espresso yields about 40ml, and the final drink size would be 80ml of beverage with 40ml of foam. In today’s context, 120ml is a minuscule cup. So instead, a modern-day cappuccino is taken to be a latte with a bit less milk, and likely with a dusting of cocoa powder over the top. 


Instead of giving firm ratios on espresso-milk drinks, most recipes are guided by cup sizes.  A cappuccino cup is smaller than a latte cup, and a piccolo cup is the smallest of all. All a barista has to do is to use the correct cup, put a double shot of espresso in and then fill up the cup with milk. One coffeeshop's cappuccino could be another's latte. But ultimately, it's more important for the drinks that you make to have internal consistency. Your latte should have a little more milk that your flat white or cappuccino, and a lot more milk than your piccolo (or a magic, or a cortado, or … you get the drift). But even that may be coming to an end. Some cafes have done away with the labelling of milk-based drinks altogether, and simply refer to their drinks as “white”  or “black”. Even the World Barista Championship renamed the “Cappuccino” section of the competition to “milk-based beverage” in 2016, allowing competitors to use however much milk that they prefer. 

Affogato

But that’s enough speculation from me, a non-professional who’s late to the game. I'll rather drink more espresso and leave the theory-making to the historians and sociologists. My espresso machine not just good for making my morning cup of joe: I often also put it to work for batches of affogato and tiramisu (the espresso-Bailey version). When I'm sick of coffee (it does happen), my steam wand does double-duty making hojicha, chai and matcha lattes. Even my nieces’ hot cocoas got my latte art treatment. (My recipe for matcha latte is 2 tsp matcha powder, mixed with a dash of sugar and 1-2 tbsp boiling water. Combine with a tiny whisk or a handheld electric frother, then add the steamed milk.) 


More recently, the new topic on the block is on homemade Nitro Cold Brew, which you can approximate with a steam wand. After all, the air is 70% nitrogen. 

Since I’m using espresso instead of cold brew, instead of calling it nitro cold brew, can I call it cold nitro brew?

Making espresso at home requires expensive purchases up-front, but at 1+ year in, I've more than broke-even. And even if you're not looking to buy an espresso machine or grinder at this stage, there are so many other ways to brew coffee, which is definitely cheaper than buying a cup every dayBut more than cost savings, coffee-brewing is immensely rewarding. It's stepping into a world of new ideas and techniques. YouTube is a great platform for this craft: huge numbers of baristas are sharing their knowledge. Every single thing that I know about pouring these latte art here, I learnt it there. And no matter where you look, from Facebook to Reddit to Discord, there are groups centered around particular espresso machines or grinders where the members discuss troubleshooting to get the best out of their purchase. It's easy to find these groups and find solutions to whatever troubles you're having. And while we're on the topic of hardware, can I also mention that the options available now were unheard of even just a couple of years ago in 2022 when I started? Back then, entry-level grinders weren't good enough for making espresso, and you'll have to spring for something at a higher price range. But in the last couple of years, a slew of capable grinders and espresso machines have been released at entry-level prices (such as the Turin SD40 or the Baratza Encore ESP.) This is a new golden age for home baristas, and there is no better time to enter the coffee-brewing hobby.

07 April 2024

Balsamic Glaze

April 07, 2024 0
Balsamic Glaze

I’m a bit of a rube, because I learnt about high-grade balsamic vinegar only recently when a good friend brought over a bottle from ItalyLike wine, the best balsamic vinegars are aged for months to years, and go for quite a premium. Compared to their regular counterparts, aged balsamic vinegars are much more viscous, taste less sharp, and have a sweet pleasant aftertaste. Rather than being an accompaniment to olive oil to drench crusty bread in, prized balsamic vinegars are drizzled over ice cream, or are used as a dip for parmigiano reggiano or strawberries. 

Or ice cream and strawberries together. I'm not picky. 

American Test Kitchen raised quite a bit of an ire when they proclaimed a recipe that converts cheap balsamic vinegar to aged balsamic vinegar "at 1/10 the price". I don't have the solid reputation that they enjoy, nor do I want to deal with the heat of balsamic vinegar connoisseurs (they exist!). But I'll just say that this recipe from the rigorous workstations of American Taste Kitchen tastes very, very good indeed.. 



I've been trying to eat healthier over the last year, and started having fruits and a salad for lunch at work. I also add the occasional avocado that's on sale, which initially raised a few eyebrows at work when I took a knife out of my bag. Still, a salad can be a little monotonous, but drizzling this balsamic glaze, alongside a handful of toasted nuts, became an instant game-changer for me in terms of adding flavour, satiety and texture. 


Balsamic Glaze

After taking these pictures, my latest batch of balsamic glaze was thicker and could be drizzled in a smooth stream. I've updated the instructions to reflect a longer cooking time.   

Original Recipe from American Taste Kitchen

INGREDIENTS
2/3 cup of cheap balsamic vinegar
2 tbsp sugar
2 tbsp port 

STEPS

1. Combine the three ingredients in a small saucepan, and cook over medium heat. When the mixture starts to simmer, reduce to low heat and continue to cook. About 10minutes in, the mixture would thicken and coat the side of the saucepan, and a rolling boil would develop. 


2. Continue cooking for about 5 more minutes until the mixture thickens up further, then remove from heat and then let cool.