 |
| Traditional Melaka coffee at the Locahouz, alongside non-traditional burgers and sweet potato fries |
Looking back at my old post to Malacca, I was surprised by how abrasive I sounded. It was written by someone truly young, with the judgmental attitude of someone who never have to deal with difficult people in a customer-facing role. Well, that's no longer true of me anymore, and I returned to Malacca older and perhaps a tad wiser.
Arriving at the Singapore-Malaysia border by 7am, we cleared both customs within half an hour. Our breakfast was at Da Shi Xi just past the border, a dim sum restaurant recommended by our driver. I was surprised that to hear that they were open for breakfast and slinging baskets of dim sum at 7am, and was more surprised that upon our arrival, the restaurant was already half-filled with locals. Roving waiters descended onto tables with trays of freshly made dim sum, and you picked and choose whatever you like. Other dishes such as xiaolongbao (soup dumplings) were made to order. While the skin of their xiaolongbao weren’t as delicate as those served in high-end xiaolongbao specialty restaurants, I was a big fan of how much soup their version contained and ordered more repeatedly over our meal. We also enjoyed their Portuguese egg tarts.
 |
| Baba and Nyonya Heritage Museum |
Coming to Malacca with my sisters’ kids gave me a chance to revisit the attractions and restaurants. We walked down the famous Jonker Street, and spent a pleasant hour at the Baba and Nyonya Heritage Museum. It was the house of the wealthy Chan family, and had been refurbished into a museum. The ornate decorations displayed the wealth and privileges that they had enjoyed in the community (the way that they lived would have been impressive even today). Afterwards, we tried to get a table at the ever-popular coffeehouse The Daily Fix. Their signature gula melaka latte is an espresso-based drink that is rich, strong, and despite my concerns regarding most gula melaka drinks, the coffee was perfectly balanced in flavour and was not at all overpoweringly sweet. But on this Saturday afternoon, the crowd was formidable and we couldn’t get a table for all 16 of us. We instead had our caffeine fix at French Brown Viennoiserie. I hadn’t come to Malacca for lattes and French pastries, but we couldn’t resist a reprieve from the sun. I love their spacious, high-ceilinged concept, and the cafe could accommodate all of us easily. The technical expertise of the pastry team was on point, and we particularly enjoyed their Mont Blanc. We lingered after our coffee and pastures to avoid the worst of the afternoon sun, and some of us took the opportunity to visit Jonker 88 just two storefronts down the road, where we hastily scoffed down bowls of cendol on a bench by the wall.
 |
| French Brown Viennoiserie |
Walking through the alleyways surrounding Jonker Street brought us to East and West Rendezvous, a shophouse selling traditional Nyonya rice dumplings. I stopped in my tracks for a hot minute, where I was so taken by the appearance of their half-wrapped dumplings: white glutinous rice spliced with a cap of blue pea flower rice.
 |
| A Studio Ghibli moment |
We went to the obligatory Dutch Square, Christ Church and Stadthuys in the morning one day, before the temperature of the day climbed. The flowers that day were in full bloom, in a bright red shade that compliments the surrounding buildings.
On Friday and on the weekends, as night falls, the area surrounding Jonker Street is transformed into a night market, with many stalls selling street food, drinks and trinkets. We snagged a box of dragon beard candy: wisps of spun sugar coiled around crushed nuts.
 |
| Nancy's Kitchen |
Amy Heritage was where I had the best Peranakan meal that I’ve had in my life. On the whole, the dishes over at Amy's were much less spicy. We let our Peranakan aunt take the wheel on the ordering, and her discerning tastes were all on point. Throughout the dinner, and well after the last dish had arrived, we were peering at the menu to see exactly what dishes she ordered in order for us recreate the magic in the bottle on our next visit.
We swooned over their delectable Kueh Pie Tee, served as an appetiser. The Udang Lemak Nenas is a special dish: fresh prawns and pineapple cooked in a delightful spiced coconut broth. And as my Peranakan aunt was adamant: this is NOT a curry. It’s a lemak, or coconut soup, flavoured with turmeric and other spices. Whatever name you call it, it’s sweet, mild and not spicy in the least, and rich in the way that coconut broths are. Utterly fantastic. We also ordered the Ayam Pongteh (Chicken stew), the Ikan Gerang Asam (Spicy and Sour Fish Stew), and sambal kangkong, which were all standout dishes. And in another startling realisation on how much I’ve changed, I love Buah Keluak now, a dish that I could not stand the last time I had it.
While in Malacca, we ended off every meal with cendol, a delightful way to cap a meal. Baba Ang, another good option for Peranakan food, makes some of the best cendol we have had.
I don't say this lightly, and I mean it when I say that the best Chinese seafood restaurant that I have eaten in my life is at Tong Sheng Seafood. This was a restaurant that we went before in 2017, and this time around, we made time specially to return. They have since renovated, and the restaurant is air-conditioned now. Reservations are a must. We had their Cheese Prawn Beehoon, Horlicks Prawns (deshelled), Fried Squid with Salted Egg Sauce and Fresh Milk Crab. But the standout dish was the Roast Suckling Pork: it was the best version that I’ve had. Dipping it in sauce would have been a travesty, though the pineapple salad served alongside was simply an inspired pairing. I didn't know it until I looked it up, but Tong Sheng was voted to be one of Malaysia’s Top 15 Restaurants in 2022. We went back twice during this trip.
During this return trip, I revised my opinion on the traditional pastries of Baba Charlie, and for the better. We had lunch there on our first day, which we do not recommend, but it gave me a second opportunity to sample their kueh. The star was the unassuming Rempah Udang. It's sticky chewy glutinous rice wrapped in pandan leaves and filled with ground shrimps. I was peeling off the pandan leaves as quickly as I could, to get to the bite-sized savoury little unami bombs. The ondeh-ondeh and the Kuih Dadar (Coconut Crepes) were satisfactory, containing fairly juicy sweetened coconut flakes.
 |
| Rempah Udang |
The KamCheng was a place that I really wanted to go, but try as I might, we just couldn’t make the dates work out. We went to Wild Coriander, another really popular destination with a queue forming within an hour if opening hours, but we might have gone in on a bad night because the food didn’t quite live up to the standards of the other restaurants that we tried.
Other than the spicy food, Malacca's history had been pretty spicy too. There's intrigue, assassinations, coups, and perhaps most famous of all, its successful diplomacy with China. The Sultanate Palace Museum, The Flor de La Mar (Maritime Museum) and the Cheng Ho Cultural Museum collectively told a story about the rise of Malacca and of its Sultanate. It was only after its contact with China has been established in 1401 and trade routes established, had the Chinese come over and eventually marry into the Malay population, leading to the Baba and the Nyonya that we all know about today. The Sultanate itself was a short-lived affair, eventually falling to the European powers after a hundred-odd years, but the legacy of the early contact with Chinese traders had effects on the cultural landscape even today.
The original palace was razed by the Portuguese when they overthrew the Sultanate in 1511, and the one standing today is a replica of how the original one would have looked during the Sultanate rule. The palace was built with wood, rather than stones, and was built on stilts, which was perhaps a reflection of the resources and challenges of the land during the time of the Sultanate.
The city planners of Malacca have a twisted sense of humour: the Sultanate Palace replica is now situated next to A Famosa (Porta de Santiago), a fortress built on a hill by the Portuguese to secure the region after their conquest. We spent our final evening in Malacca walking up the hill and looking at the remnants of the fort and down below, the replica of the Sultanate Palace. We stood on the hill, silhouettes in a setting sun, feeling the cool evening air wrap around the old ruins and flow through the passageways, bringing from the crumbling structures a cool touch of muskiness, of dust, and of the last reminders of a bygone era.
No comments:
Post a Comment